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Parents' Diet
The first thing to be said about Quaker nutrition should be that we are fooling ourselves if we think we know what they truly need. What we know about their dietary needs is based on stomach contents evaluations by naturalists, observations of feeding in the wild, psittacine dietary research, and long term breeders' experiences.

Thankfully, the practice is no longer tolerated, but during and prior to the 1800s, it was common practice for naturalists studying wild birds to capture some, kill them, and examine their stomach contents to gain insight into their diet. Though horrific in general, this practice provided modern keepers with valuable dietary information specific for various species. Contents found in Quakers' stomachs were the following: Seeds, fruits and buds, grains, fruits, considerable other "green" plant material, insects, larvae, and "earth". This illustrates what every Quaker owner who offers a varied diet likely knows already. They are truly omnivores in the wild. Of note, and contrary to popular thinking, most journals consistently noted dirt, sand, and grit as common crop contents for not only Quakers, but the majority of species studied.

Observations of Quakers feeding in their natural habitat are limited. However, accounts of dietary choices by modern Quakers near humans in South America and feral populations in the US are more thorough. Again, the observations have been that Quakers are very diverse omnivores. They have been reported to prefer seed and grain available from feeders and cultivated fields, but they have also been found to be partial to a diverse diet including pretty much everything in a home garden, unripe fruit, and insects, and they have even been seen picking through trash cans.

Though interesting, stomach contents analysis and wild feeding observations get us no closer to a Quaker's dietary needs. In certain other species who have a large part of their diet based on a certain food, such as the Hyacinth macaw and palm nuts, one may be able to make some rough estimates of nutritional needs. But with the impressively omnivorous Quaker, it is far from possible to translate these observations into meaningful information that can direct us towards their dietary needs.

Disclaimer:

What follows is a simplification of vertebrate metabolism as it applies to the Quaker diet, and it is not intended to be, by any means, complete. Much has been omitted for simplicity and to more clearly illustrate concepts.

Macronutrients and Micronutrients:

Over 99% of all foods (not counting the indigestible portions) are comprised of the 3 basic nutritional building blocks of protein, carbohydrates, and fats. These, understandably are termed macronutrients and are where pretty much all the calories come from. The rest of what any creature eats (and actually uses) are termed micronutrients and include a myriad of substances such as vitamins, minerals, and the like.

Proteins:

Proteins are comprised of 16-30 "essential" amino acid building blocks depending on the species in question. "Essential" means that the animal is unable to build them itself and MUST ingest them to achieve adequate nutrition. It is not known how many the Quaker needs, but it is likely similar to other psittacines such as the Budgie that require 23. Most are readily available in adequate amounts in common diets. However, lysine, methionine, tryptophan, arginine, and threonine have been identified as being at risk for not being present in sufficient amounts in common diets. They are used to build the vast majority of body tissues and, hence, become extremely important in the laying hen, rearing parent, growing chick and developing adolescent Quaker. One key to proper nutrition is to offer an approximate percentage of the diet as protein in keeping with what is required by the species AND to offer an appropriate balance of these amino acids.

Even if the protein content of a diet is extremely high, the body cannot make needed proteins unless all the required building block amino acids are available and in the proportions needed. So one must look beyond the "% protein" listed on a label. Since we don't know exactly what amino acids are "essential" for Quakers, it is probably a good practice to offer numerous different protein sources which will all have different amino acid makeups in an attempt to "hedge our bets" and provide a wide array of amino acids. Also, care should be taken to make sure good sources of lysine, methionine, tryptophan, arginine, and threonine are offered. From pellet manufacturer research, we have a pretty good idea that 10-15% protein is adequate for an adult pet bird. But how much of an increase is needed for the laying hen, rearing parent, growing chick and developing adolescent Quaker is not known. Good sources of the troublesome amino acids lysine, methionine, tryptophan, arginine, and threonine are (in decreasing order of amount of amino acids per dollar) animal protein, sunflower seed, canary seed, peas, spinach, soybeans (specifically tofu), brewer's yeast, and wheat germ.

Carbohydrates:

Carbohydrates are sugars and starches. Sugars are quick fuel and starches are sugars linked together in long, long chains. When linked together like this, they require less water and are more easily stored compactly. They can also be quickly broken down into sugars for fuel. Thus, they are ideally used as a short term energy storage device. There is minimal difference between different types of starches. So the type and source is not very important as there is no such thing as an "essential" carbohydrate as pretty much all animals can construct the needed carbohydrates themselves from whatever carbohydrates they ingest. So which carbohydrates you choose to feed to your Quaker are not too important except for what other things the particular carbohydrate source has as well such as vitamins and minerals.

Animals store only a very small amount of starch. But certain plants may be as high as 90% starch. Gram for gram, carbohydrates provide the same energy (calories) as proteins and half as much as fats. From pellet manufacturer research, we have a pretty good idea that 65-75% carbohydrates is adequate for an adult pet bird. But how much of change is ideal for the laying hen, rearing parent, growing chick and developing adolescent Quaker is not known.

Fats:

Fats are composed of fatty acids which are basically oils and greases. When linked together by glycerides, they become fats as we know them under our skin. When a food is evaluated for "fats" it is really the total of all fats and fatty acids oils and greases). They are twice as dense with calories as proteins and carbohydrates, but cannot be broken down quickly. Thus, they are an ideal long term energy storage device. Fats are common in animal foods, while fatty acids are more likely to be found in plant foods.

There are several types of fats and fatty acids such as saturated fat, unsaturated fat, trans fatty acids, and "essential" fatty acids. "Essential" fatty acids are known of in most vertebrate species. Linoleic acid is the only one that is known for sure, though others may exist as well. But we are just beginning to learn about these in ourselves and it is very unclear what a Quaker may need. Similar to the approach with essential amino acids, it is a sound idea to offer several fat sources to allow a greater chance of providing the essential fatty acids as we have no idea what these may be in the Quaker. Moreover, fat sources rich in linoleic acid should be favored which include safflower seed, sunflower seed, and non-tropical vegetable oils of all kinds.

From pellet manufacturer research, we have a pretty good idea that 15-20% fat is adequate for an adult pet bird. An increased demand for the laying hen, rearing parent, growing chick and developing adolescent has been determined. But the amount of this increase is anyone's guess. What we do know is that the essential fat choline, which is similar in function to vitamins, is in great demand in all growth situations. Fortunately, it is readily available in almost all diets except those extremely low in fat.

Macronutrient Interchangeability and Total Caloric Intake:

Though it is imperative to consume "essential" amino acids and "essential" fatty acids in their small requirements, the overall breakdown of what percentage protein, carbohydrates, or fats there are in a particular diet (within reason) is less important. This is because animals have evolved to do a pretty good job of using what they eat and converting it to what they need. Generally speaking, it is the overall caloric intake that leads to fat accumulation and NOT a high fat or high carbohydrate diet.

Proteins can be converted to fats and stored or converted to carbohydrates and burned as fuel. Carbohydrates can be converted to proteins for growth or to fats for storage. Fats can be converted to most amino acids (proteins) for growth or converted and burned as fuel along similar metabolic pathways as carbohydrates are burned.

To illustrate, let's consider a person who needs 2000 calories a day as their "ideal" caloric intake based on their height and weight. If that person eats a 20% protein/20% carbohydrate/60% fat diet of 2000 calories a day (like some native Alaskans do), they will remain thin because the body will need all 2000 calories to "run the machine". It will break down the ingested fats to fuel and NOT store them. Conversely, a person who consumes a 30% protein/60% carbohydrate/10% fat diet of 3000 calories a day (like many did during the "count the fat grams" rage), will have an extra 1000 calories their body doesn't need. If they don't exercise it off, the body will store it as fat for the next famine. Again, this is a result of evolution. Similarly, someone who eats a 40% protein/10% carbohydrate/50% fat diet of 3000 calories a day (as many Adkins followers do) will also have an excess 1000 calories they don't need and may gain weight instead of lose it. The point is that it is the overall caloric intake that supercedes the macronutrient breakdown in importance when considering weight gain.

Fatty Liver Disease and Dietary Fat:

One of the main concerns with a Quaker's diet is fatty liver disease. FLD is not a liver disorder in and of itself, but is the end result of a Quaker who has been overfed chronically. When the body has too much fuel, it stores fat. When the regular abilities to handle fat storage are overwhelmed, fat is deposited in the liver causing FLD, liver failure, and sometimes death. The same thing happens in humans, but is generally not fatal. After reading the previous paragraph, it should be clear that it is NOT merely a diet too high in fat, but a diet too high in calories that is the true culprit. It is true that a gram of fat has twice the calories as a gram of protein or carbohydrate. So a bird ingesting the same VOLUME of a high fat diet will get more calories. However, a Quaker that eats only sunflower seeds but takes in the normal amount of calories it needs will have no problem. But a Quaker who gorges on pasta daily and never gets fat in the diet is at high risk for FLD. It is a matter of calories consumed vs. calories used just like in dieting humans ... diet and exercise. The Quaker with FLD is the equivalent of a human with morbid obesity. However, in humans death can only result as a complication of obesity while in Quakers the obesity itself can prove fatal.

Vitamins and Minerals:

Vitamins and minerals are micronutrients. A human can get far more than their daily requirement by taking a 5 gram pill each day. This represents 0.005% of a large human's body weight. If we made a similar pill for a 100 gram Quaker, it would weigh 0.005 grams which is the approximate weight of a large grain of sand. So we're talking about miniscule amounts ingested. However, as small as these requirements are, a deficiency will often be fatal.

Most vitamins are classified as co-enzymes. Enzymes are specific proteins that each make a specific metabolic pathway work. Vitamins can be viewed as the "key" for many of these enzymes and enzymatic pathways. Without the vitamin to "unlock" the enzyme and let it work, the metabolic process halts. If the particular process is vital, the organism dies. The laying hen, rearing parent, growing chick and developing adolescent have an increased requirement for vitamins A, D3, and E. Good sources of vitamin A are carrots, yams, red peppers, and greens of all kinds. (especially spinach) Vitamin D3 will be addressed below, but good natural sources are fish oil, liver, and egg yolk. Good sources of vitamin E are safflower and sunflower oils and seeds and soybeans. (specifically tofu)

Vitamins are of two types ... water soluble and fat soluble. Water soluble vitamins cannot be stored in the body and will be lost in the urine on a daily basis. So they must be taken on a continuing basis to remain in adequate amounts. Fat soluble vitamins, however, can be stored in fat cells within the body. This proves to be a double edged sword. On one hand it is good as 3 of these 4 are those in highest demand during breeding and growth, so they are unlikely to become deficient unless the diet is downright horrible. However, since the body can accumulate them, they are among the highest risk for vitamin toxicity. Over supplementation will most often result in toxicity of fat soluble vitamins.

Mineral function is more varied. Some act as co-enzymes similar to vitamins while others are very important in absorption of other micronutrients. Still others function to stabilize membranes or scavenge free radicals. A unique mineral in psittacines is Calcium which is discussed below. The laying hen, rearing parent, growing chick and developing adolescent have an increased requirement of calcium and phosphorous. There are a number of other good sources of calcium and phosphorous, but none are better than cuttlebone.

Ritchie, Harrison and Harrison's "Avian Medicine" lists 13 essential vitamins and 12 essential minerals for psittacines. However the surrounding explanatory text is repetitive with the clear message that we do not know with any certainty what true psittacine requirements are in general ... let alone a species specific requirement such as the Quaker. As it is difficult (but not impossible) to cause vitamin or mineral toxicity, most avian vets recommend a powdered vitamin and mineral supplement daily.

Calcium, Phosphorous, Vitamin D3, and Sunlight:

Vitamin D3 is required for adequate absorption of both calcium and phosphorous. So a diet with adequate or even an abundance of calcium and phosphorous in the breeding hen or growing chick will be worthless without vitamin D3 to allow the bird to absorb them. Vitamin D3 is not available in any significant amount in any natural diet. However, all psittacines can manufacture the precursor to vitamin D3 (7-dehydrocholesterol) themselves. It is secreted by the uropygial gland during preening where it is exposed to sunlight. UV rays then convert it to vitamin D3 and it is ingested during later preening. Poultry studies suggest that as little as 11 minutes of direct sunlight may be adequate to accomplish this! So, any Quaker that does not have access to direct sunlight (not counting through windows which can filter out the UV rays) should be supplemented with either a powdered vitamin or a pelleted diet or it is at risk for calcium or phosphorous deficiencies. Over the course of laying a clutch, a hen may lay as much as 3% of her body weight in calcium alone! This great need for calcium and phosphorous during breeding makes this issue absolutely critical for breeders as calcium changes from a micronutrient to a macronutrient for laying hens.

Early Psittacine Nutrition Research:

In the beginning, knowledge about psittacine nutritional needs was limited. It was based primarily on stomach contents evaluations by naturalists long ago and what little observational information that was available on wild feeding habits. There has been a fair amount of research done on psittacine diets since that time.

Along the vein of early dog and cat pellet research, most initial efforts focused on macronutrient (protein, carbohydrate, and fat) requirements. The starting point came from the poultry industry. They were light years ahead primarily because they were well funded being a huge commercial industry and were "married" to many veterinary medical schools where research money and equipment were available.

Results were varied, but the following ranges were eventually deemed reasonable for maintenance in pet psittacines:

Proteins 10-15%
Carbohydrates 65-75%
Fats 15-20%

Researchers then turned to the micronutrients, amino acids, and essential fatty acids. But the sheer number of nutrients needing evaluation (100+) and the significant increase in cost to study these miniscule components of foods was staggering. Rather than evaluating proteins, carbohydrates and fats in grams, they were evaluating vitamins and minerals in milligrams and parts per million! So efforts in these areas have been largely ineffective. Those micronutrients that have been studied the best are calcium, phosphorous, vitamin D3, vitamin A, vitamin E, linoleic acid, and some of the amino acids. Fortunately these are some of the most important ones. As mentioned above, guidelines have been established, but even leading avian medicine texts caution their readers that these guidelines are extrapolated from poultry studies.

Research is ongoing, but the main reason why it has suffered is funding. As opposed to the poultry industry and the dog and cat food markets, the parrot market is extremely small. This is not only in numbers, but in volume. The average dog or cat eats 50 times what the average pet bird does. So research that led to a wonderful pellet diet breakthrough would only have 1/50th the profitability. Funding, therefore, has been limited to very few independent veterinary school projects and studies funded by pellet companies. In the future, research will be ongoing, but it should be slow.

Pelleted Diets:

When we first began breeding it was suggested to us that "scientific research" has shown that the absolute best thing one can offer to any pet bird is a pellet diet. More specifically, we were encouraged to offer 100% pellets which we did initially. The purported advantages of an all pellet diet are as follows:

- lower cost
- less work
- minimal risk of spoilage
- avoidance of birds picking and choosing seeds they like from a seed or soft food mix
- "ideal" nutrition based on science

However, we learned a few things from some very helpful breeders and our avian vet during our first year or two that made us reconsider this approach. (we also had ZERO babies)

Most pellet studies are NOT scientifically sound in nature, essentially none have specifically addressed Quakers, and precious little is available that has NOT been funded by pellet companies or parties with a financial interest in their outcome. So the cautious reader would take their results with a grain of salt. Moreover, most of the studies either focus on comparing one pellet preparation to another to see which level of this or that did better or focus on comparing pellets to an all seed diet. In my research I only found one independent study (meaning not funded by pellet companies) that directly compared pellets and a "good" seed diet with added "good" soft food. The study found no difference.

In most species, including humans, instinct plays a role to help adjust an animal's intake according to their individual nutritional needs at any given time. Therefore, allowing a bird some degree of free choice to enable their instinct to help guide their nutrition seems like sound practice to many Quaker breeders including ourselves.

Our Diet:

We offer a dry seed mix that we mix ourselves, germinated seed that we mix ourselves, and a soft food that we make ourselves as well as having pellets in the cages 24/7.

Parrot beaks are made to crack seed and anyone who has ever owned one will tell you they absolutely LOVE it! The dry seed mix was adopted from Bob Nelson who has used it for decades. By using the FDA's information on nutrient content of foods (i.e. the individual seeds in the mix) and a little math I calculated the protein, carbohydrate and fat content of this seed mix. It matches the protein, carbohydrate and fat content of Roudybush pellets almost EXACTLY! It has 0.5% more protein, 0.5% more carbohydrates, and 1% less fat than the Roudybush preparation. We feed 1/8th cup of this per breeding pair each morning. At this amount, they pretty much consume it all which avoids the problem of birds picking and choosing certain seeds in a mix.

To allow our parents a fair amount of free choice and a little "fun" in mealtime, we also offer daily soft food. Each breeding pair gets a heaping tablespoonful each morning.

32oz long grain brown rice (it comes in this size)
20oz mixed 15 bean soup mix (it comes in this size)
5 cups water

Combine these in a LARGE pot, bring to a boil,
simmer for 25 mins and then turn off the heat.

32oz frozen corn (it comes in this size)
16oz frozen peas (it comes in this size)

Add these to the pot, mix thoroughly, and let stand for about 15 mins. We will often substitute another frozen veggie such as mixed veggies for half of the corn to vary this a bit.

While waiting the 25 then 15 mins above, chop up 12 cups of a fresh variety of fruits and vegetables into Quaker sized niblets. These should be at least 3/4 veggies and the fruits should be not quite ripe. These are some of our birds' favorites.

Apples Green beans Rhubarb
Pears Carrots Broccoli
Mango Yellow squash Green peppers
Papaya Zucchini Yellow peppers
Cranberries Citrus Rinds Red peppers
Blueberries Jalapenos Yams
Bean sprouts Spinach Tofu

As soon as the frozen veggies have stood for 15 mins, add the chopped fruits and veggies and drain the excess water. Immediately divide this into portions and freeze those not immediately used. This recipe will make about 30 cups of soft food. As we have many birds and feed this to all our pets as well, it lasts a week for us. We divide it into 7 portions. One is served right away, one is placed in the refrigerator for the next day and 5 are frozen for the rest of the week.

There are breeders who frown on freezing soft food citing that nutrients are lost. However, human nutrition research indicates that nutritional loss during freezing is minimal as long as the freezing takes place quickly. Moreover, nutritional loss from cooking fruits and vegetables is large and on the order of 10 to 20 times that of freezing. The soft food is left in the cage for only 4-6 hours to avoid spoilage. Though it rarely lasts more than 2-3 hours as they absolutely love it.

In breeding season we also offer 1/4 cup germinated seed per breeding pair in the evenings. Our custom mix was also stolen (with permission) from Bob Nelson. It has a slightly higher fat content, but is only offered in breeding season when the breeders need a higher caloric intake to meet the needs of their chicks. The advantages of geminated seed are 2 fold. First, it is a very high protein food. When a seed germinates, it transforms carbohydrates to proteins in preparation of the new plants growth. The protein available is in the form of amino acid building blocks and is VERY available nutritionally. Many sees will double or triple their protein content at germination. When the plant actually sprouts, then this becomes cellulose and is not digestible. So the key is to offer it when the shoot is just breaking out of the seed. The other great advantage is that germinated seed says "time to breed" to Quakers as it is only available in quantity in the Spring when breeding in the wild begins. So it acts as a wonderful stimulus to breed for our birds. The germinated seed stays overnight as it is a live food and has all the natural defenses against bacteria and fungi that germinating seeds in the wild have.

The first thing to be said about Quaker nutrition should be that we are fooling ourselves if we think we know what they truly need. What we know about their dietary needs is based on stomach contents evaluations by naturalists, observations of feeding in the wild, psittacine dietary research, and long term breeders' experiences.

Thankfully, the practice is no longer tolerated, but during and prior to the 1800s, it was common practice for naturalists studying wild birds to capture some, kill them, and examine their stomach contents to gain insight into their diet. Though horrific in general, this practice provided modern keepers with valuable dietary information specific for various species. Contents found in Quakers' stomachs were the following: Seeds, fruits and buds, grains, fruits, considerable other "green" plant material, insects, larvae, and "earth". This illustrates what every Quaker owner who offers a varied diet likely knows already. They are truly omnivores in the wild. Of note, and contrary to popular thinking, most journals consistently noted dirt, sand, and grit as common crop contents for not only Quakers, but the majority of species studied.

Observations of Quakers feeding in their natural habitat are limited. However, accounts of dietary choices by modern Quakers near humans in South America and feral populations in the US are more thorough. Again, the observations have been that Quakers are very diverse omnivores. They have been reported to prefer seed and grain available from feeders and cultivated fields, but they have also been found to be partial to a diverse diet including pretty much everything in a home garden, unripe fruit, and insects, and they have even been seen picking through trash cans.

Though interesting, stomach contents analysis and wild feeding observations get us no closer to a Quaker's dietary needs. In certain other species who have a large part of their diet based on a certain food, such as the Hyacinth macaw and palm nuts, one may be able to make some rough estimates of nutritional needs. But with the impressively omnivorous Quaker, it is far from possible to translate these observations into meaningful information that can direct us towards their dietary needs.

Disclaimer:

What follows is a simplification of vertebrate metabolism as it applies to the Quaker diet, and it is not intended to be, by any means, complete. Much has been omitted for simplicity and to more clearly illustrate concepts.

Macronutrients and Micronutrients:

Over 99% of all foods (not counting the indigestible portions) are comprised of the 3 basic nutritional building blocks of protein, carbohydrates, and fats. These, understandably are termed macronutrients and are where pretty much all the calories come from. The rest of what any creature eats (and actually uses) are termed micronutrients and include a myriad of substances such as vitamins, minerals, and the like.

Proteins:

Proteins are comprised of 16-30 "essential" amino acid building blocks depending on the species in question. "Essential" means that the animal is unable to build them itself and MUST ingest them to achieve adequate nutrition. It is not known how many the Quaker needs, but it is likely similar to other psittacines such as the Budgie that require 23. Most are readily available in adequate amounts in common diets. However, lysine, methionine, tryptophan, arginine, and threonine have been identified as being at risk for not being present in sufficient amounts in common diets. They are used to build the vast majority of body tissues and, hence, become extremely important in the laying hen, rearing parent, growing chick and developing adolescent Quaker. One key to proper nutrition is to offer an approximate percentage of the diet as protein in keeping with what is required by the species AND to offer an appropriate balance of these amino acids.

Even if the protein content of a diet is extremely high, the body cannot make needed proteins unless all the required building block amino acids are available and in the proportions needed. So one must look beyond the "% protein" listed on a label. Since we don't know exactly what amino acids are "essential" for Quakers, it is probably a good practice to offer numerous different protein sources which will all have different amino acid makeups in an attempt to "hedge our bets" and provide a wide array of amino acids. Also, care should be taken to make sure good sources of lysine, methionine, tryptophan, arginine, and threonine are offered. From pellet manufacturer research, we have a pretty good idea that 10-15% protein is adequate for an adult pet bird. But how much of an increase is needed for the laying hen, rearing parent, growing chick and developing adolescent Quaker is not known. Good sources of the troublesome amino acids lysine, methionine, tryptophan, arginine, and threonine are (in decreasing order of amount of amino acids per dollar) animal protein, sunflower seed, canary seed, peas, spinach, soybeans (specifically tofu), brewer's yeast, and wheat germ.

Carbohydrates:

Carbohydrates are sugars and starches. Sugars are quick fuel and starches are sugars linked together in long, long chains. When linked together like this, they require less water and are more easily stored compactly. They can also be quickly broken down into sugars for fuel. Thus, they are ideally used as a short term energy storage device. There is minimal difference between different types of starches. So the type and source is not very important as there is no such thing as an "essential" carbohydrate as pretty much all animals can construct the needed carbohydrates themselves from whatever carbohydrates they ingest. So which carbohydrates you choose to feed to your Quaker are not too important except for what other things the particular carbohydrate source has as well such as vitamins and minerals.

Animals store only a very small amount of starch. But certain plants may be as high as 90% starch. Gram for gram, carbohydrates provide the same energy (calories) as proteins and half as much as fats. From pellet manufacturer research, we have a pretty good idea that 65-75% carbohydrates is adequate for an adult pet bird. But how much of change is ideal for the laying hen, rearing parent, growing chick and developing adolescent Quaker is not known.

Fats:

Fats are composed of fatty acids which are basically oils and greases. When linked together by glycerides, they become fats as we know them under our skin. When a food is evaluated for "fats" it is really the total of all fats and fatty acids oils and greases). They are twice as dense with calories as proteins and carbohydrates, but cannot be broken down quickly. Thus, they are an ideal long term energy storage device. Fats are common in animal foods, while fatty acids are more likely to be found in plant foods.

There are several types of fats and fatty acids such as saturated fat, unsaturated fat, trans fatty acids, and "essential" fatty acids. "Essential" fatty acids are known of in most vertebrate species. Linoleic acid is the only one that is known for sure, though others may exist as well. But we are just beginning to learn about these in ourselves and it is very unclear what a Quaker may need. Similar to the approach with essential amino acids, it is a sound idea to offer several fat sources to allow a greater chance of providing the essential fatty acids as we have no idea what these may be in the Quaker. Moreover, fat sources rich in linoleic acid should be favored which include safflower seed, sunflower seed, and non-tropical vegetable oils of all kinds.

From pellet manufacturer research, we have a pretty good idea that 15-20% fat is adequate for an adult pet bird. An increased demand for the laying hen, rearing parent, growing chick and developing adolescent has been determined. But the amount of this increase is anyone's guess. What we do know is that the essential fat choline, which is similar in function to vitamins, is in great demand in all growth situations. Fortunately, it is readily available in almost all diets except those extremely low in fat.

Macronutrient Interchangeability and Total Caloric Intake:

Though it is imperative to consume "essential" amino acids and "essential" fatty acids in their small requirements, the overall breakdown of what percentage protein, carbohydrates, or fats there are in a particular diet (within reason) is less important. This is because animals have evolved to do a pretty good job of using what they eat and converting it to what they need. Generally speaking, it is the overall caloric intake that leads to fat accumulation and NOT a high fat or high carbohydrate diet.

Proteins can be converted to fats and stored or converted to carbohydrates and burned as fuel. Carbohydrates can be converted to proteins for growth or to fats for storage. Fats can be converted to most amino acids (proteins) for growth or converted and burned as fuel along similar metabolic pathways as carbohydrates are burned.

To illustrate, let's consider a person who needs 2000 calories a day as their "ideal" caloric intake based on their height and weight. If that person eats a 20% protein/20% carbohydrate/60% fat diet of 2000 calories a day (like some native Alaskans do), they will remain thin because the body will need all 2000 calories to "run the machine". It will break down the ingested fats to fuel and NOT store them. Conversely, a person who consumes a 30% protein/60% carbohydrate/10% fat diet of 3000 calories a day (like many did during the "count the fat grams" rage), will have an extra 1000 calories their body doesn't need. If they don't exercise it off, the body will store it as fat for the next famine. Again, this is a result of evolution. Similarly, someone who eats a 40% protein/10% carbohydrate/50% fat diet of 3000 calories a day (as many Adkins followers do) will also have an excess 1000 calories they don't need and may gain weight instead of lose it. The point is that it is the overall caloric intake that supercedes the macronutrient breakdown in importance when considering weight gain.

Fatty Liver Disease and Dietary Fat:

One of the main concerns with a Quaker's diet is fatty liver disease. FLD is not a liver disorder in and of itself, but is the end result of a Quaker who has been overfed chronically. When the body has too much fuel, it stores fat. When the regular abilities to handle fat storage are overwhelmed, fat is deposited in the liver causing FLD, liver failure, and sometimes death. The same thing happens in humans, but is generally not fatal. After reading the previous paragraph, it should be clear that it is NOT merely a diet too high in fat, but a diet too high in calories that is the true culprit. It is true that a gram of fat has twice the calories as a gram of protein or carbohydrate. So a bird ingesting the same VOLUME of a high fat diet will get more calories. However, a Quaker that eats only sunflower seeds but takes in the normal amount of calories it needs will have no problem. But a Quaker who gorges on pasta daily and never gets fat in the diet is at high risk for FLD. It is a matter of calories consumed vs. calories used just like in dieting humans ... diet and exercise. The Quaker with FLD is the equivalent of a human with morbid obesity. However, in humans death can only result as a complication of obesity while in Quakers the obesity itself can prove fatal.

Vitamins and Minerals:

Vitamins and minerals are micronutrients. A human can get far more than their daily requirement by taking a 5 gram pill each day. This represents 0.005% of a large human's body weight. If we made a similar pill for a 100 gram Quaker, it would weigh 0.005 grams which is the approximate weight of a large grain of sand. So we're talking about miniscule amounts ingested. However, as small as these requirements are, a deficiency will often be fatal.

Most vitamins are classified as co-enzymes. Enzymes are specific proteins that each make a specific metabolic pathway work. Vitamins can be viewed as the "key" for many of these enzymes and enzymatic pathways. Without the vitamin to "unlock" the enzyme and let it work, the metabolic process halts. If the particular process is vital, the organism dies. The laying hen, rearing parent, growing chick and developing adolescent have an increased requirement for vitamins A, D3, and E. Good sources of vitamin A are carrots, yams, red peppers, and greens of all kinds. (especially spinach) Vitamin D3 will be addressed below, but good natural sources are fish oil, liver, and egg yolk. Good sources of vitamin E are safflower and sunflower oils and seeds and soybeans. (specifically tofu)

Vitamins are of two types ... water soluble and fat soluble. Water soluble vitamins cannot be stored in the body and will be lost in the urine on a daily basis. So they must be taken on a continuing basis to remain in adequate amounts. Fat soluble vitamins, however, can be stored in fat cells within the body. This proves to be a double edged sword. On one hand it is good as 3 of these 4 are those in highest demand during breeding and growth, so they are unlikely to become deficient unless the diet is downright horrible. However, since the body can accumulate them, they are among the highest risk for vitamin toxicity. Over supplementation will most often result in toxicity of fat soluble vitamins.

Mineral function is more varied. Some act as co-enzymes similar to vitamins while others are very important in absorption of other micronutrients. Still others function to stabilize membranes or scavenge free radicals. A unique mineral in psittacines is Calcium which is discussed below. The laying hen, rearing parent, growing chick and developing adolescent have an increased requirement of calcium and phosphorous. There are a number of other good sources of calcium and phosphorous, but none are better than cuttlebone.

Ritchie, Harrison and Harrison's "Avian Medicine" lists 13 essential vitamins and 12 essential minerals for psittacines. However the surrounding explanatory text is repetitive with the clear message that we do not know with any certainty what true psittacine requirements are in general ... let alone a species specific requirement such as the Quaker. As it is difficult (but not impossible) to cause vitamin or mineral toxicity, most avian vets recommend a powdered vitamin and mineral supplement daily.

Calcium, Phosphorous, Vitamin D3, and Sunlight:

Vitamin D3 is required for adequate absorption of both calcium and phosphorous. So a diet with adequate or even an abundance of calcium and phosphorous in the breeding hen or growing chick will be worthless without vitamin D3 to allow the bird to absorb them. Vitamin D3 is not available in any significant amount in any natural diet. However, all psittacines can manufacture the precursor to vitamin D3 (7-dehydrocholesterol) themselves. It is secreted by the uropygial gland during preening where it is exposed to sunlight. UV rays then convert it to vitamin D3 and it is ingested during later preening. Poultry studies suggest that as little as 11 minutes of direct sunlight may be adequate to accomplish this! So, any Quaker that does not have access to direct sunlight (not counting through windows which can filter out the UV rays) should be supplemented with either a powdered vitamin or a pelleted diet or it is at risk for calcium or phosphorous deficiencies. Over the course of laying a clutch, a hen may lay as much as 3% of her body weight in calcium alone! This great need for calcium and phosphorous during breeding makes this issue absolutely critical for breeders as calcium changes from a micronutrient to a macronutrient for laying hens.

Early Psittacine Nutrition Research:

In the beginning, knowledge about psittacine nutritional needs was limited. It was based primarily on stomach contents evaluations by naturalists long ago and what little observational information that was available on wild feeding habits. There has been a fair amount of research done on psittacine diets since that time.

Along the vein of early dog and cat pellet research, most initial efforts focused on macronutrient (protein, carbohydrate, and fat) requirements. The starting point came from the poultry industry. They were light years ahead primarily because they were well funded being a huge commercial industry and were "married" to many veterinary medical schools where research money and equipment were available.

Results were varied, but the following ranges were eventually deemed reasonable for maintenance in pet psittacines:

Proteins 10-15%
Carbohydrates 65-75%
Fats 15-20%

Researchers then turned to the micronutrients, amino acids, and essential fatty acids. But the sheer number of nutrients needing evaluation (100+) and the significant increase in cost to study these miniscule components of foods was staggering. Rather than evaluating proteins, carbohydrates and fats in grams, they were evaluating vitamins and minerals in milligrams and parts per million! So efforts in these areas have been largely ineffective. Those micronutrients that have been studied the best are calcium, phosphorous, vitamin D3, vitamin A, vitamin E, linoleic acid, and some of the amino acids. Fortunately these are some of the most important ones. As mentioned above, guidelines have been established, but even leading avian medicine texts caution their readers that these guidelines are extrapolated from poultry studies.

Research is ongoing, but the main reason why it has suffered is funding. As opposed to the poultry industry and the dog and cat food markets, the parrot market is extremely small. This is not only in numbers, but in volume. The average dog or cat eats 50 times what the average pet bird does. So research that led to a wonderful pellet diet breakthrough would only have 1/50th the profitability. Funding, therefore, has been limited to very few independent veterinary school projects and studies funded by pellet companies. In the future, research will be ongoing, but it should be slow.

Pelleted Diets:

When we first began breeding, it was suggested to us that "scientific research" has shown that the absolute best thing one can offer to any pet bird is a pellet diet. More specifically, we were encouraged to offer 100% pellets, which we did initially. The purported advantages of an all pellet diet are as follows:

- lower cost
- less work
- minimal risk of spoilage
- avoidance of birds picking and choosing seeds they like from a seed or soft food mix
- "ideal" nutrition based on science

However, we learned a few things from some very helpful breeders and from our avian vet during our first year or two that convinced us to reconsider this approach.

Most pellet studies are NOT scientifically sound in nature, essentially none have specifically addressed Quakers, and precious little information is available that has NOT been funded by pellet companies or parties with a financial interest in their outcome. The cautious reader would take the results with a grain of salt. Moreover, most of the studies either focus on comparing one pellet preparation to another to see which level of this or that were better in which pellet; or they focus on comparing pellets to an all seed diet. In my research, I only found one independent study (meaning not funded by pellet companies) that directly compared pellets and a "good" seed diet with added "good" soft food. The study found no difference.

In most species, including humans, instinct plays a role to help adjust an animal's intake according to their individual nutritional needs at any given time. Therefore, allowing a bird some degree of free choice to enable their instinct to help guide their nutrition seems a sound practice to many Quaker breeders, including ourselves.

Our Diet:

We offer a dry seed mix that we mix ourselves, germinated seed that we mix ourselves, and a soft food that we make ourselves as well as having pellets in the cages 24/7.

Parrot beaks are made to crack seed, and anyone who has ever owned a parrot will tell you they absolutely LOVE it! The dry seed mix was adopted from Bob Nelson, who has used it for decades. By using the FDA's information on nutrient content of foods (i.e. the individual seeds in the mix) and a little math, Scott Doak calculated the protein, carbohydrate and fat content of this seed mix. It matches the protein, carbohydrate and fat content of Roudybush pellets almost EXACTLY! It has 0.5% more protein, 0.5% more carbohydrates, and 1% less fat than the Roudybush preparation. We feed 1/8th cup of this per breeding pair each morning. At this amount, they pretty much consume it all which avoids the problem of birds picking and choosing certain seeds in a mix.

To allow our parents a fair amount of free choice and a little "fun" at mealtime, we also offer daily soft food. Each breeding pair gets a heaping tablespoonful each morning.

32oz long grain brown rice (it comes in this size)
20oz mixed 15 bean soup mix (it comes in this size)
5 cups water

Combine these in a LARGE pot, bring to a boil,
simmer for 25 mins and then turn off the heat.

32oz frozen corn (it comes in this size)
16oz frozen peas (it comes in this size)

Add these to the pot, mix thoroughly, and let stand for about 15 mins. We will often substitute another frozen veggie such as mixed veggies for half of the corn to vary this a bit.

While waiting the 25 then 15 mins above, chop up 12 cups of a fresh variety of fruits and vegetables into Quaker sized niblets. These should be at least 3/4 veggies and the fruits should be not quite ripe. These are some of our birds' favorites.

Apples Green beans Rhubarb
Pears Carrots Broccoli
Mango Yellow squash Green peppers
Papaya Zucchini Yellow peppers
Cranberries Citrus Rinds Red peppers
Blueberries Jalapenos Yams
Bean sprouts Spinach Tofu

As soon as the frozen veggies have stood for 15 mins, add the chopped fruits and veggies, and drain the excess water. Immediately divide this into portions and freeze those not immediately used. This recipe will make about 30 cups of soft food. As we have many birds and feed this to all our pets as well, it lasts a week for us. We divide it into 7 portions. One is served right away, one is placed in the refrigerator for the next day and 5 are frozen for the rest of the week.

There are breeders who frown on freezing soft food, citing that nutrients are lost; however, human nutrition research indicates that nutritional loss during freezing is minimal as long as the freezing takes place quickly. Moreover, nutritional loss from cooking fruits and vegetables is large and on the order of 10 to 20 times that of freezing. The soft food is left in the cage for only 4-6 hours to avoid spoilage. Though it rarely lasts more than 2-3 hours as they absolutely love it.

During breeding season, we also offer 1/4 cup germinated seed per breeding pair in the evenings. Our custom mix was also stolen (with permission) from Bob Nelson. It has a slightly higher fat content, but is only offered in breeding season, when the breeders need a higher caloric intake to meet the needs of their chicks. The advantages of geminated seed are twofold: First, it is a very high protein food. When a seed germinates, it transforms carbohydrates to proteins in preparation of the new plants growth. The protein available is in the form of amino acid building blocks and is VERY available nutritionally. Many sees will double or triple their protein content at germination. When the plant actually sprouts, then this becomes cellulose and is not digestible. So the key is to offer it when the shoot is just breaking out of the seed. The other great advantage is that germinated seed says "time to breed" to Quakers as it is only available in quantity in the Spring when breeding in the wild begins. So it acts as a wonderful stimulus to breed for our birds. The germinated seed stays overnight as it is a live food and has all the natural defenses against bacteria and fungi that germinating seeds in the wild have.

To round out their diet, cuttle bone is always available, and we add a powdered vitamin to the soft food daily. This ensures that vitamins are always present without contaminating the water. Vitamin supplements in water can put birds off their water and create increased bacterial growth. Offering cuttle bone in this fashion allows a laying hen to consume a large amount without forcing a cock to take in a large amount of calcium as many powdered preparations can. Moreover, many of our hens break off pieces and keep a stockpile in the nest box for easy munching while they sit. We've even caught the occasional doting cock shuttling cuttle bone chunks up to his sitting hen ..... too cute !

Their water is special well water provided by our district of the city. We route it through a multi-step filtration system before entering the aviary. We change it twice or three times daily, depending on how messy the pair is.